Step 1

Turn the Rebound adjuster out counter-clockwise to its full open positions. Clamp the adjuster eyelet in your soft-jawed vise, then release all air from the main air chamber. Unthread and remove the air sleeve from the eyelet by turning it counter-clockwise. Replace the seals in the end of the air sleeve with new greased ones from the rebuild kit.

If present an air volume spacer would be found in the eyelet. Make sure that any positive air volume spacers are oriented so their slot is facing the DPX2 reservior when installed.

Step 2

Remove the white Delrin ball from the pellet retainer in the reservoir end cap. Release the Nitrogen charge by unthreading the pellet retainer counter-clockwise. Remove the pellet retainer then discard the original pellet.

Step 3

Unthread and remove the End Cap Lockring by turning it counter-clockwise. Push the End Cap Assembly into the reservoir to access the wire retaining ring.

Step 4

Remove the wire retaining ring from within the reservoir. You may use a shim to help lift the retaining ring.

Step 5

Remove the End Cap Assembly by threading a bolt (PN:018-02-034) into the internal threads of the End Cap and pulling up. You may also use an inverted End Cap Lockring to catch the external threads of the End Cap to pull it out if it hasn't been pushed in too deep.

If needed you may remove the End Cap Assembly by pulling it up with pliers. Only grip the End Cap Assembly by its flats and not the external threads. Replace the o-ring on the End Cap Assembly with a new greased one from the kit and set aside until reassembly.

Step 6

Clamp the body eyelet in your soft-jawed vise. Start to unthread the Bearing Assembly from the body by turning it counter-clockwise with a 22mm wrench or smooth jawed pliers (Knipex).

Step 7

Continue unthreading the body from the Bearing Assembly over your oil drain. Pour out all oil from the shock body.

Step 8

Clamp the shaft eyelet in your soft-jawed vise. Unthread the piston nut counter-clockwise with a 9mm socket. Remove the piston and valving assembly as a unit, keeping all parts in their original order.

Step 9

Unthread the Piston Stud counter-clockwise with a 6-point chamfer-less 11mm socket. Lift up to remove the Piston Stud, Topout Plate, and Inner Shaft.

Step 10

Remove the Topout O-ring from the shaft, then remove the Bearing Assembly. Install new seals from the kit onto the Bearing Assembly then set it aside for reassembly.

Step 11

Remove the bottom out bumper and bottom out plate from the shaft by pulling them up.

Step 12

Remove the IFP by pulling it up with pliers. Replace the main o-ring on the IFP assembly with a new greased one from the kit and set it aside for reassembly.

Step 13

Use the Bottom our Plate from the shock or another shim approximately 0.015" thick to remove the rebound knob. Gently pry the knob away from the eyelet with the shim. Remove the o-ring from the Rebound Eyelet Cap.

Step 14

Use the DPX2 Rebound Cap Driver (PN: 398-00-761) to unthread the Rebound Eyelet Cap counter-clockwise from the eyelet. Remove the Rebound Eyelet Cap slowly as there is a spring beneath it. Remove the spring and set it aside for reassembly. Replace the seals on the cap with new greased ones from the rebuild kit.

Step 15

Use a 2.5mm hex wrench to unthread counter-clockwise the set screw for the blue remote pulley. Remove the pulley by pulling it away from the eyelet. Separate the torsion spring from the pulley and set aside.

Step 16

Use the DPX2 Remote Compression Cap Driver tool to unthread the Remote Compression Cap counter-clockwise. Remove the Remote Compression Cap slowly as there is a spring beneath it. Remove the spring and set it aside for reassembly. Replace the seals on the cap with new greased ones from the rebuild kit.

Step 17

The Base Valve Assembly should only be removed if being replaced. For regular service, there is no need to remove the Base Valve Assembly. To remove the Base Valve Assembly, use the DPX2 Base Valve Driver (PN: 398-00-763) to unthread and remove the  Assembly counter-clockwise from the compression side of the eyelet.

Step 18

Remove the o-ring from inside the eyelet that seals the air sleeve to the eyelet. Replace it with a new greased one from the Air Sleeve Rebuild kit (PN: 803-00-142).

Step 1

Clamp the shaft eyelet in your soft-jawed vise, then install the bottom out plate followed by a new bottom out o-ring from the rebuild kit.

Step 2

Insert the DPX2 Bullet Tool (PN: 398-00-764) into the end of the shaft. Make sure the newly rebuilt Bearing Assembly has plenty of grease on its seals, then reinstall the Bearing Assembly onto the shaft over the bullet tool as shown.

Step 3

Install a new Topout O-ring from the rebuild kit followed by the Topout Plate in the orientation shown.

Step 4

Reinstall the Inner Shaft with Piston Stud attached into the Outer Shaft through the Topout Plate. Thread the Piston Stud clockwise tightening to 80 in-lb (9.0 Nm) torque with a chamfer-less 6-point socket.

Step 5

Replace your original Piston with the new one from the kit, making sure to keep all valves in their original order. Install the rebuilt Piston Assembly onto the Piston Stud, making sure that all valving is in its original configuration. Thread the Piston Nut onto the Piston Stud clockwise, tightening to 60 in-lb (6.8 Nm) torque.

Step 6

DPX2 Remote Base Valves can be identified by their color. DPX2 PTU Base Valves have a black anodized aluminum base. DPX2 PTL Base Valves have a clear anodized aluminum base.

Step 7

Thread the Base Valve Assembly into the eyelet through the compression side (the side closest to the air valve) tightening clockwise to 110 in-lb (12.4 Nm) torque with the Base Valve Driver tool.

Step 8

Reinstall the spring onto the shaft of the Base Valve (on the rebound side) followed by the Rebound End Cap Assembly. Care must be taken to align the check spring with the counter-bore of the end cap. Thread the Cap clockwise, tightening to 90 in-lb (10.2 Nm) torque.

Step 9

Install a new greased o-ring from the rebuild kit onto the outside of the Rebound Eyelet Cap.

Step 10

Reinstall the Rebound knob by firmly pressing it onto the Rebound Eyelet Cap.

Step 1

Reinstall the spring onto the shaft of the Base Valve (on the compression side) followed by Remote Compression Cap. Care must be taken to align the check spring with the counter-bore of the end cap. Position the cable hangar on the Remote Compression Cap with the cable exit facing up as shown. Thread the Cap clockwise, tightening to 90 in-lb (10.2 Nm) torque.

Step 2

Coat the torsion spring with a thick film of water-proof marine grease such as Sta-Lube SL3125.

Step 3

Use the blue remote pulley as a wrench to gently turn the adjuster shaft fully clockwise until it stops.

Step 4

Without turning the adjuster shaft, remove and reposition the blue remote pulley so the cable pinch bolt is just counter-clockwise of the air valve and as close to the air valve as possible without contacting.

Step 5

Rotate the pully counter-clockwise until it gently stops. Note this position of the cable pinch bolt on the blue remote pulley (this will be the final pulley position), then temporarily remove the pulley. Install the greased torsion spring so the tang that sticks out radially is oriented toward the last position of the cable pinch bolt and the other tang is seated into one of the 15 holes in the Eyelet Cap Assembly.

Step 6

Replace the o-ring on the blue remote pulley with a new greased one from the kit. Engage the exposed tang of the torsion spring with the slot in the blue remote pulley. Make sure not to damage the dirt-excluding o-ring on the remote pulley. Without rotating the adjuster shaft, rotate the pulley and spring clockwise approximately 60 degrees to the final pulley position then engage the pulley with the adjuster shaft and seat the pulley.

Step 7

Reinstall the set screw tightening clockwise to 10 in-lb (1.13 Nm) torque.

Step 1

Reinstall the spring onto the shaft of the Base Valve (on the compression side) followed by Remote Compression Cap. Care must be taken to align the check spring with the counter-bore of the end cap. Position the cable hangar on the Remote Compression Cap with the cable exit facing down as shown. Thread the Cap clockwise, tightening to 90 in-lb (10.2 Nm) torque.

Step 2

Coat the torsion spring with a thick film of water-proof marine grease such as Sta-Lube SL3125.

Step 3

Use the blue remote pulley as a wrench to gently turn the adjuster shaft fully clockwise until it stops.

Step 4

Without turning the adjuster shaft, remove and reposition the blue remote pulley so the cable pinch bolt is just counter-clockwise of and as close to the cable hangar as possible without contacting.

Step 5

Rotate the pully counter-clockwise until it gently stops. Note this position of the cable pinch bolt on the blue remote pulley (this will be the final pulley position), then temporarily remove the pulley. Install the greased torsion spring so the tang that sticks out radially is oriented toward the last position of the cable pinch bolt and the other tang is seated into one of the 15 holes in the Eyelet Cap Assembly.

Step 6

Replace the o-ring on the blue remote pulley with a new greased one from the kit. Engage the exposed tang of the torsion spring with the slot in the blue remote pulley. Make sure not to damage the dirt-excluding o-ring on the remote pulley. Without rotating the adjuster shaft, rotate the pulley and spring clockwise approximately 60 degrees to the final pulley position then engage the pulley with the adjuster shaft and seat the pulley.

Step 7

Reinstall the set screw tightening clockwise to 10 in-lb (1.13 Nm) torque.

Step 1

Clamp the body eyelet in your soft-jawed vise, then thread the Bearing Assembly onto the body, tightening clockwise to 240 in-lb (27.1 Nm).

Step 2

Install a new greased o-ring from the kit onto the bleed screw of the IFP. Install the IFP with new greased o-rings into the reservoir followed by the wire retaining ring.

Step 3

Connect the DPX2 Body to the Andreani Fill Machine using the Fill Machine Adaptor (PN: 803-00-472). Make sure to install the o-ring into the port in the shock body before threading in the fill adaptor. Cycle the shock by hand while you perform the vacuum cycle. Then cycle the shock by hand as you perform the fill cycle. Cycling the shock during fill is important as it opens the cross holes that allows oil to fill between the inner and outer shafts. Repeat as necessary to purge all air from the shock. Set the IFP to 1.500" (38.1mm). Remove the Fill Adaptor and o-ring from the port in the body.

Step 4

While keeping the port in the body above the rest of the shock, insert a new pellet with beveled side first into the port at the end of the body. Install the Pellet Retainer tightening clockwise to 14 in-lb (1.6 Nm) torque. Install a new white Delrin ball into the Pellet Retainer.

Step 5

Wipe out any excess oil from within the reservoir with a lint-free paper towel. 

Step 6

Apply a very small drop of Float Fluid to the wall of the IFP chamber to help keep the IFP o-ring lubricated. Install the End Cap Assembly with a new greased o-ring from the rebuild kit. Install the wire retaining ring.

Step 7

Seat the End Cap Assembly against the wire retaining ring by pulling it up with pliers. Only grip the End Cap Assembly by its flats and not the external threads. Install the End Cap Lockring by threading it clockwise onto the End Cap Assembly until hand tight.

Step 8

Insert a new pellet with beveled side first into the End Cap Assembly followed by the Pellet Retainer.

Step 1

Position the shock in your soft-jawed vice so the open reservoir is facing up. Position the Bearing Assembly so the cross holes in the shaft are just visible. Inject FOX R3 5wt. oil into the Bearing Assembly so it is funneled into the cross holes in the shaft. Inject oil into the shaft through the Piston Nut until the reservoir is filled with oil. Slide the Bearing Assembly up to retain the oil.

Step 2

Remove the IFP bleed screw by unthreading it counter-clockwise from the IFP with a 2mm hex wrench. Replace the o-ring on the screw with a new greased one from the kit.

Step 3

Top off the reservoir with oil, then install the IFP. Push the IFP down until the bleed hole is under oil. 

Step 4

Top off the reservoir again, then set the IFP to 1.500" (38.1mm). 

Step 5

Reinstall the IFP bleed screw tightening clockwise to 7in-lb (0.8 Nm).

Step 6

Cover the Piston Nut with a gloved finger to make a good oil seal. Invert the reservoir over your oil drain to pour out excess oil from the IFP chamber. 

Step 7

Clamp the body in your soft jawed vise and fill with oil. Top off the shaft with oil. Top off the area between the shafts with oil by funneling into the shaft cross holes with the Bearing Assembly. Pull the Bearing Assembly toward the piston to retain the oil.

Step 8

Wrap the body with a lint-free paper towel to catch overflow oil. Quickly invert the shaft assembly over the body and thread it in clockwise by the bearing, tightening to 240 in-lb (27.1 Nm) torque.

Step 9

Invert the shock in your soft-jawed vise, then remove the IFP bleed screw by untheading it counter-clockwise with a 2mm hex wrench. 

Step 10

Add oil to the reservoir so the bleed hole in the IFP remains submerged at all times during the bleed process.

Step 11

Compress the shock by hand to cycle oil and any trapped air into the reservoir. Slowly extend the shock taking care not to pull any bubbles from the reservoir back into the shock through the IFP. Repeat this process until no new air bubbles are seen in the reservior upon compression. 

Step 12

Check the IFP height after cycling the shock. Reset the IFP to 1.500" if needed.

Step 13

Reinstall the IFP bleed screw with a new greased o-ring from the rebuild kit. Tighten clockwise to 7in-lb (0.8 Nm).

Step 14

Pour out the oil from the IFP chamber, then wipe out any excess oil from within the reservoir with a lint-free paper towel. 

Step 15

Apply a very small drop of Float Fluid to the wall of the IFP chamber to help keep the IFP o-ring lubricated. Install the End Cap Assembly with a new greased o-ring from the rebuild kit. Install the wire retaining ring.

Step 16

Seat the End Cap Assembly against the wire retaining ring by pulling it up with pliers. Only grip the End Cap Assembly by its flats and not the external threads. Install the End Cap Lockring by threading it clockwise onto the End Cap Assembly until hand tight.

Step 17

Insert a new pellet with beveled side first into the End Cap Assembly followed by the Pellet Retainer. 

Step 1

With the Pellet Retainer just snug, fill the IFP chamber to 150psi. 

Step 2

Tighten the pellet retainer clockwise to 14 in-lb (1.6 Nm) torque. Dyno the shock to check all damper functions. Once happy with the dyno results, install a new white Delrin ball into the Pellet Retainer.

Step 3

Coat the Bearing Assembly with a film of Float Fluid, then slide the air sleeve up onto the main air seal. Inject 2cc of Float Fluid into the main air chamber before threading the air sleeve into the eyelet clockwise. Tighten to 45 in-lb (5.1 Nm) torque by hand.

Step 4

Fill the main chamber to your desired air pressure. When adding air to the air chamber, it is important to equalize the positive and negative air chambers by slowly compressing the shock through 25% of its travel 10-20 times after every 50psi addition. Test all shock functions.