SERVICE PROCEDURES
Float ReAktiv
Required Parts
- 025-02-003 Oil: AM, FOX Suspension Fluid [32 oz.], 10 WT Red
- 803-00-142 Kit: Rebuild, FLOAT Line Air Sleeve, Special Q-Ring
- 803-00-816 Seal Kit: CTD Boost Valve and Dish Shock Rebuild (Same for DPS shocks)
Required Tools
- 398-00-374 Tooling: Pellet Retainer Tool, Nitrogen Fill
- 802-01-000-KIT Service Set: Air Valve Assy, Nitrogen Safety Needle Assy w/Manual, Complete w/out Gauge
- 803-00-566 Kit:Bike IFP Depth Setting Tool Set
- 803-00-805 Kit: Shaft Clamps, Shocks, CTD 9mm, 3/8in, 1/2in, 5/8in
- Nitrogen Fill Station (Tank with Regulator) required for full rebuild.
Sections
WARNING: Always wear safety glasses and protective gloves during service to prevent potential injury. Failure to wear protective equipment during service may lead to SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
WARNING: FOX products should be serviced by a qualified bicycle service technician, in accordance with FOX specifications. If you have any doubt whether or not you can properly service your FOX product, then DO NOT attempt it. Improperly serviced products can fail, causing the rider to lose control resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
WARNING: Modification, improper service, or use of aftermarket replacement parts with FOX forks and shocks may cause the product to malfunction, resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. DO NOT modify any part of a fork or shock, including the fork brace (lower leg cross brace), crown, steerer, upper and lower leg tubes, or internal parts, except as instructed herein. Any unauthorized modification may void the warranty, and may cause failure or the fork or shock, resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
WARNING: FOX suspension products contain pressurized nitrogen, air, oil, or all 3. Suspension misuse can cause property damage, SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. DO NOT puncture, incinerate or crush any portion of a FOX suspension product. DO NOT attempt to disassemble any portion of a FOX suspension product, unless expressly instructed to do so by the applicable FOX technical documentation, and then ONLY while strictly adhering to all FOX insturctions and warnings in that instance.
WARNING: Never attempt to pull apart, open, disassemble, or service a FOX shock that is in a "stuck down" condition. A "stuck down" condition results from a failure of the dynamic air seal (located between the positive and negative air chambers within the non-EVOL shock air sleeve), resulting with the negative chamber retaining a higher pressure than the positive chamber. To test whether the shock is in fact "stuck down":
- Remove the air cap and depress the Schrader valve, to completely release air pressure from the positive chamber of the shock.
- If the shock body retracts into the air sleeve near bottom-out after the air is released from the positive chamber, attach a FOX high pressure pump and pressurize the shock to 250psi (17 bar).
- If the shock does not fully extend, it is in a "stuck down" condition.
Any attempt to service FOX air shocks in the "stuck down" condition can lead to SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. Contact FOX or an Authorized Service Center for repair.
IFP Information:
| Size | IFP Height | IFP Pressure |
| 6.5 x 1.5 | 2.31in/ 58.67mm | 450psi |
| 210 X 55 | 2.598in/ 65.989mm | 350psi |
Disassembly
Releasing the air pressure too quickly can induce a condition in which the negative chamber has more pressure than the positive chamber. In this condition the shock will compress into its travel and not fully extend. You can remedy this by adding air pressure until the shock extends, then slowly compressing the shock through 25% of its travel 10-20 times. Release air pressure slowly via the bleed button of your shock pump to prevent Stuckdown.
Step 1
Clamp your shock in a soft-jawed vice. Remove the black air cap and thread on your FOX shock pump. Slowly release all air from the main air chamber with your pump, then remove the pump.
Step 2
Unthread the air sleeve from the eyelet by turning it counter-clockwise. Remove the air sleeve after unthreading by pulling it away from the shock.
Step 3
Using a pick tool, remove the nylon plug to access the pellet screw. Use a 5/32" hex to release the nitrogen pressure and remove the pellet retainer. Remove the pellet with the pick tool.
Step 4
Clamp the shock vertically and use a 5/64" hex to slowly remove the bleed screw. Use a magnet to remove the ball from under the bleed screw. Unthread the bearing assembly from the shock body with a 3/4in wrench. Position your wrench so the wrench does not apply torque to the bleed hole.
Step 5
Remove the shaft assembly from the body and pour out the damper oil. Remove the IFP using carefully applied air pressure. Inspect the body for damage or excessive wear.
Step 6
Remove the IFP o-ring and inspect its gland on the piston itself for any damage or contamination. Apply Slick Honey grease to the new IFP o-ring from the replacement seal kit, and install it on the piston.
Step 7
Support the eyelet assembly in your soft-jawed vice and use a 6-point chamfer-less 8mm socket to remove the RD Check Bolt. Remove the check shim and set aside.
Step 8
Use a 5mm hex wrench to unthread (counter-clockwise) and remove the Valve Housing Cap.
Step 9
Use fine snap-ring pliers to hold the inner Blowoff Piston Valve as you separate it from the outer Valving Housing Cap. Separate the ring shim from the Blowoff Piston Valve if necessary. Replace the o-ring on the Blowoff Piston Valve with a greased one from the rebuild kit.
Step 10
Remove the wave spring from within the RG valve housing. Grab the screw in the center of the open RG valve housing and pull straight up to remove the adjuster rod and spring perch.
Step 11
Unthread the piston bolt counter-clockwise with an 8mm socket. Remove the piston bolt, valve housing, and any valves, keeping them in order. Replace the glide ring and o-ring on the valve housing with new ones from the kit.
Step 12
Remove the bearing assembly by pulling it up off of the shaft. Replace all seals with new greased ones from the kit.
Step 13
Remove the bottom out plate and o-ring by pulling them up off of the shaft.
Step 14
Clamp the shaft in your shaft clamps with the eyelet at the top. Unthread the eyelet from the shaft by turning it counter-clockwise
Step 15
Lift out the rebound adjuster rod and replace both its outer o-ring and inner square-cut o-ring with new greased ones from the kit. Clean the Loctite residue off of the shaft threads.
Step 16
Clean the Loctite residue from within the shaft boss on the inside of the eyelet. Replace the air sleeve o-ring within the eyelet with a new greased one from the kit.
Eyelet Rebuild
Step 1
Unthread counter-clockwise and remove the set screw from the top of the eyelet with a 1.5mm hex wrench. This will allow for the removal of the adjuster knobs and cam. Make sure not to lose the rebound detent ball and spring which may stick to the back of the rebound knob or remain in the small hole in the eyelet just above the bore for the adjusters and cam. Remove the detent spring with a pick. Clean bare eyelet and set aside.
Step 2
Use a 1.5mm hex wrench to unthread the set screw in the blue compression selector lever. Separate the blue lever from the cam and the red rebound knob.
Step 3
Coat the cam in waterproof grease such as Sta-Lube SL3125 then insert it into the red rebound knob from the back. Coat the parts of the rebound knob that will be within the eyelet with waterproof grease. Reinstall the blue compression selector lever and tighten its set screw against the depression in the cam with a 1.5mm hex wrench to 5 in-lb (0.6 Nm).
Step 4
Insert the greased detent spring into the small hole in the face of the eyelet, followed by the detent ball. Carefully insert the lever assembly into the eyelet without dislodging the detent ball and spring. Compress the detent spring by pushing the lever assembly into the eyelet, then install and gently tighten the set screw in the top of the eyelet fully, then back it out 1/4 turn.
Reassembly
Step 1
Coat the new o-ring from the kit with Slick Honey and install it into the shaft using blunt tools such as hex wrenches to fit it into position within its seal groove.
Step 2
Coat the narrow end of the rebound metering rod with a thin film of Slick Honey and carefully insert it into the internal shaft o-ring to seat it completely within its groove.
Step 3
Apply a small drop of red Loctite 277 to the shaft threads.Install the shaft into the eyelet with the ball bearing on the metering rod oriented toward the front of the shock.
Step 4
Clamp the shaft in your shaft clamps then tighten the eyelet to the shaft clockwise tightening to 85 in-lb (9.6 Nm) with the Trunnion eyelet torque tool.
Step 5
Remove the shock from the clamps and gently clamp the eyelet in your soft-jawed vise so the mounting bolt areas are the only portions of the eyelet contacting the vise. Reinstall the bottom out plate followed by a new bottom out o-ring from the kit.
Step 6
Carefully reinstall the rebuilt bearing assembly onto the shaft taking care not to damage the u-cup seal.
Step 7
Set the Trek RG Valve Stack Transfer Tool (PN: 398-00-614) on your work bench. Install the piston bolt onto the tool followed by the rebound valves. Install the valve housing onto the tool next followed by the compression valves and topout plate.
Step 8
Invert the loaded Trek RG Valve Stack Transfer Tool onto the shaft then turn the tool clockwise to begin threading the piston bolt into the shaft. Remove the tool then tighten the piston bolt clockwise with an 8mm socket tightening to 60 in-lb (6.8 Nm).
Step 9
Carefully install the adjuster rod assembly being careful not to damage the o-ring inside the shaft that the rod goes through. Set the blue lever to Open Mode (fully counter-clockwise) while gently pushing the rod assembly as far into the Valve Housing as possible.
Step 10
Install the new wave spring from the kit into the valve housing, then fill the Valve Housing Piston with FOX 10wt. Red oil.
Step 11
Thread the Valve Housing Cap into the Valve Housing Piston. Install the RD Check Valve and bolt and torque the entire assembly to 22 in-lb (2.5 Nm) using a 6-point chamfer-less six-point 8mm socket.
Step 12
Install a new pellet from the service kit with the flat side facing up, then lightly secure with the pellet retainer.
Step 13
Apply a very thin film of Slick Honey to the inside of the shock body, then insert the IFP with it's slot facing up. Adjust your IFP depth setting tool (PN: 803-00-566) to the correct IFP depth for your shock. Use your IFP depth setting tool to push the IFP down to it's appropriate depth.
Step 14
Completely fill the body with FOX 10wt. red shock oil. Slowly insert the Damper Assembly down into the oil-filled body, then thread the bearing assembly to the body while watching for clean bubble-free oil coming out of the bleed hole. Tighten to 240in-lb(27.1Nm) with your 3/4in crow's foot.
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Step 15
Reinstall the ball bearing into the bleed hole of the Bearing Assembly. Reinstall the set screw tightening clockwise to 10-15 in-lb (1.1-1.7 Nm) torque with a 5/64" hex wrench.
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Step 16
Insert the Nitrogen Fill Pellet Retainer tool (PN: 398-00-374) into the pellet retainer near the end of the body. Use the Pellet Retainer tool to unthread the pellet retainer 1/4 turn. Depress the safety button on the nitrogen fill needle (PN: 802-01-000-KIT), then slide the shock onto the needle by pressing toward the nitrogen fill needle. Charge the IFP chamber to 350 psi. Use the Pellet Retainer tool to gently tighten the pellet retainer by 1/4 turn. Quickly pull the shock straight away from the nitrogen fill needle. A loud pop will be heard. Use a 5/32" hex wrench to tighten the pellet retainer to 14 in-lb (1.6 Nm). Press the Delrin ball into the pellet retainer with your soft-jawed vice.
Step 17
Apply a thin film of Float Fluid to the main air seals on the bearing assembly and the air sleeve. Add 2cc of Float Fluid to the main air chamber then slide the air sleeve onto the shock damper, then thread it to the eyelet clockwise until hand tight. Add ait to your desired pressure then reinstall the blac air cap and install a new sag-indicator from the kit onto the body. Clean the exterior of the shock then dYno test all functions.
