SERVICE PROCEDURES

2014-2017 FLOAT X Rebuild

Required Parts

  • 024-02-493 Decal: 2014 Float X CTD Reservoir, Remote (optional)
  • 024-02-494 Decal: 2014 Float X CTD, Reservoir (optional)
  • 803-00-142 Kit: Rebuild, FLOAT Line Air Sleeve, Special Q-Ring
  • 803-00-826 Seal Kit: Float X Shock Rebuild

Required Tools

Supplies Needed

  • 1.5mm Hex Wrench
  • 22mm Crow's Foot
  • 22mm Wrench
  • 5/32 in. Hex Wrench
  • 9mm Socket
  • Chamfer-less 6-Point 7/16" Socket
  • Needle-Nosed Pliers
  • No. 31 Friction Wrench (10") or FOX Shaft Clamps PN: 803-00-208
  • Ratchet
  • Seal Pick
  • T6 Torx driver
  • Torque Wrench
  • Waste Oil Basin

WARNING: Always wear safety glasses and protective gloves during service to prevent potential injury. Failure to wear protective equipment during service may lead to SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

For parts lists and assembly drawings for FLOAT X CTD shocks, go to PARTLIST - SHOCK- 2014 FLOAT X CTD »

WARNING: FOX products should be serviced by a qualified bicycle service technician, in accordance with FOX specifications. If you have any doubt whether or not you can properly service your FOX product, then DO NOT attempt it. Improperly serviced products can fail, causing the rider to lose control resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

WARNING: Modification, improper service, or use of aftermarket replacement parts with FOX forks and shocks may cause the product to malfunction, resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. DO NOT modify any part of a fork or shock, including the fork brace (lower leg cross brace), crown, steerer, upper and lower leg tubes, or internal parts, except as instructed herein. Any unauthorized modification may void the warranty, and may cause failure or the fork or shock, resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

WARNING: FOX suspension products contain pressurized nitrogen, air, oil, or all 3. Suspension misuse can cause property damage, SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. DO NOT puncture, incinerate or crush any portion of a FOX suspension product. DO NOT attempt to disassemble any portion of a FOX suspension product, unless expressly instructed to do so by the applicable FOX technical documentation, and then ONLY while strictly adhering to all FOX insturctions and warnings in that instance.

WARNING: Never attempt to pull apart, open, disassemble, or service a FOX shock that is in a "stuck down" condition. A "stuck down" condition results from a failure of the dynamic air seal (located between the positive and negative air chambers within the non-EVOL shock air sleeve), resulting with the negative chamber retaining a higher pressure than the positive chamber. To test whether the shock is in fact "stuck down":

  1. Remove the air cap and depress the Schrader valve, to completely release air pressure from the positive chamber of the shock.
  2. If the shock body retracts into the air sleeve near bottom-out after the air is released from the positive chamber, attach a FOX high pressure pump and pressurize the shock to 250psi (17 bar).
  3. If the shock does not fully extend, it is in a "stuck down" condition.

Any attempt to service FOX air shocks in the "stuck down" condition can lead to SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. Contact FOX or an Authorized Service Center for repair.

WARNING: Any improper servicing procedure with FOX air shocks in the "stuck down" condition can lead to SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. Contact FOX or an Authorized Service Center for repair.

Disassembly

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Step 1

Remove the black air cap and release the air pressure. Unthread and remove the air sleeve. Clean the air sleeve and replace the air sleeve seals.

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Step 2

Remove the white Delrin ball from the end of the reservoir. Release the Nitrogen pressue by unthreading and removing the pellet retainer with a 5/32" hex wrench. Remove the black pellet with a pick.

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Step 3

Unthread the Reservoir End Cap Lockring and remove. Push the Reservoir End Cap into the reservoir slighly, then use a 9x4 shim to remove the wire retaining ring. Remove the Reservoir End Cap by pulling it out with needle-nosed pliers. Replace the o-ring on the Reservoir End Cap.

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Step 4

Use a 1.5mm hex wrench to remove the two set screws that hold the Lever Housing Assembly to the Eyelet. 

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Step 5

Clamp the body eyelet in your soft-jawed vise and unthread the Body Bearing from the Body using a 22mm wrench. Drain the oil into your waste oil container.

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Step 6

Clamp the Eyelet Assembly in your soft-jawed vise. Remove the Piston Nut with a 9mm socket. Remove the valving assembly and piston keeping all parts in their original order. Use a chamfer-less 6-point 7/16in. socket to remove the Piston Post from the shaft. Remove the Topout Plate and set aside.

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Step 7

Remove the Body Bearing and replace the internal oil seals as well as the external air sleeve seals. Remove the bottom out o-ring and plate. Remove any air volume spacers if present.

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Step 8

Remove the reservoir decal to allow access with either a Friction Wrench or appropriate shaft clamps (PN: 803-00-208). Unthread the reservoir over your waste oil container to catch the remaining oil.

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Step 9

Drain any remaining oil from the eyelet and remove the check valve and spring. Clean and inspect the check shim and spring and set aside.

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Step 10

Push the Internal Floating Piston (IFP) out through the end of the reservoir using a small tool. Replace the IFP o-ring and set IFP and Reservoir aside.

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Step 11

Unthread the Adjuster Cartridge from the eyelet using a 9mm socket. After unthreading, pull the Adjuster Cartridge from the eyelet with needle-nosed pliers.

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Step 12

Remove the o-rings on the outside of the Adjuster Cartridge End Cap and replace them with new greased ones from the kit.

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Step 13

Clamp the shaft in your 0.5in. (12.7mm) shaft clamps and unthread the eyelet. Note, the rebound metering rod may remain stuck in the rebound knob/eyelet upon removal. After unthreading, be sure to pull eyelet straight up away from shaft to prevent damage to the rebound metering rod.

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Step 14

Carefully pull the rebound metering rod out of the eyelet while holding the red rebound knob. Wiggle the rebound knob until you can remove it from its slot. The rebound detent ball and spring will fall out through the same slot, be carefull not to lose these small parts.

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Step 15

If necessary, you can use the rebound metering rod or a 1/8" hex to unthread the rebound insert from within the shaft.

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Reassembly

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Step 1

Clean out any Loctite residue and replace all three o-rings in the eyelet. Insert the red rebound knob into its slot in the eyelet so the side with more surface area is facing down toward the shaft. Insert the rebound metering rod into the eyelet, aligning its hex with the red rebound knob. 

 

 

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Step 2

Apply a drop of red Loctite 277 to the shaft threads then install the eyelet onto the shaft. Torque the eyelet to 110 in-lb (12.4 Nm).

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Step 3

Thread the rebound insert into the shaft with a 1/8" hex wrench so its taper is oriented away from the eyelet. Once the rebound insert contacts the rebound metering rod, wiggle the red rebound knob until the hex of the rebound insert aligns with the hex of the rebound metering rod. Use the red rebound knob to continue threading in the rebound insert. Make sure the rebound insert is adjusted all the way into the shaft (turn the rebound knob counter-clockwise). This positions the rebound insert deep enough into the shaft to allow for the piston post. 

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Step 4

Remove the set screw from top of the eyelet. Insert the rebound detent ball followed by the spring. Reinstall the set screw until deep enough to give you audible clicks when turning the red rebound knob. Leaving the set screw too deep will bind the rebound knob preventing adjustment.

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Step 5

Reinstall the air volume spacer if present. Reinstall the bottom out plate and new bottom out o-ring followed by the body bearing.

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Step 6

Install the Topout plate so the counter bore faces toward the eyelet. Thread the Piston Post into the shaft until just hand tight. Install the valving assembly followed by the Piston Nut. Torque the Piston Nut to 60 in-lb (6.8 Nm).

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Step 7

Grease the IFP and IFP o-ring with Slick Honey and install into the reservoir with the counter bore facing the eyelet end. Install the check shim and check spring into the reservoir from the eyelet end.

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Step 8

Apply a small amount of Blue Loctite 242 to the threads of the reservoir. Thread the reservoir to the eyelet being careful not to pinch the check shim or spring and torque to 20 ft-lb (240 in-lb or 27.1 Nm). You may also clamp the reservoir in your shaft clamps (PN: 803-00-208) and turn the eyelet to tighten with the eyelet torque tool (PN: 398-00-280).

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Step 9

Clamp the body eyelet in your soft-jawed vise. Thread the body bearing onto the body and torque to 20 ft-lb (240 in-lb or 27.1 Nm).  

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Step 10

The edges of the eyelet where the Adjuster Cartridge is housed are very sharp and can be dangerous if handled carelessly. Use your 9mm socket to install the Adjuster Cartridge to keep your fingers away from the sharp edges. Push in to seat the o-rings and then torque to 75 in-lb (8.5 Nm). 

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The FLOAT X CTD can be converted to a FLOAT X CTD Remote by replacing Lever Housing Assembly 820-00-289-KIT with Remote Lever Housing Assembly 820-00-129-KIT. These two assemblies are interchangeable.

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Step 11

Carefully install the Lever Housing Assembly into the eyelet (watch for sharp eyelet edges). Install the two set screws with a 1.5mm hex wrench to 3.5 in-lb (0.4 Nm).

 

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Oil/Nitrogen Fill and Final Assembly

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Step 1

Install the wire retaining ring into the end of the reservoir to prepare for the oil fill.

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Step 2

Remove the Delrin ball, pellet retainer, and pellet from the body. 

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Step 3

Using Fill Adapter 803-00-472 with your Andreani machine, vacuum and fill your shock cycling it at least 6 times during the fill process to eliminate any trapped air. Set the IFP to 1.35in. (34.29mm). Disconnect your shock from the Andreani machine keeping the fill port at the end of the body above the rest of the shock.

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Step 4

Keeping the fill port at the end of the body raised, insert a new pellet followed by the pellet retainer torquing to 14 in-lb (1.6 Nm). 

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Step 5

Remove the wire retaining ring in the end of the reservoir. Install a new pellet followed by the pellet retainer in the reservoir end cap.

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Step 6

Grease the reservoir end cap and o-ring with Slick Honey and install into the end of the reservoir. Push the reservoir end cap into the reservoir deep enough to allow installation of the wire retaining ring.

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Step 7

Install the reservoir end cap lockring and tighten hand-tight. Fill the IFP chamber to 150psi. Torque the pellet retainer to 14 in-lb (1.6 Nm). Install a Delrin ball into the pellet retainer. Dyno the shock to check all functions.

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FLOAT X CTD shocks have a maximum air pressure of 300psi

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Step 8

Coat the main air seals and air sleeve seals with a thin film of Float Fluid. Install the air sleeve and thread on until hand-tight. Add air pressure to the main chamber followed by the air valve cap. Dyno test again to verify proper function and feel.

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Step 9

Install a Delrin ball into the pellet retainer in the reservoir end cap by gently tapping it with a mallet. Thoroughly clean the exterior of your shock and then apply a new reservoir decal.

  • 024-02-494 Decal: 2014 FLOAT X CTD, Reservoir
  • 024-02-493 Decal: 2014 FLOAT X CTD Remote, Reservoir
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Lever Housing Assembly

If functioning properly you do not need to disassemble the Lever Housing Assembly as part of a regular rebuild. The following disassembly/reassembly steps are shown in case any parts need to be replaced due to damage.

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Step 1

Hold the Lever Housing Assembly and remove the set screw that holds the cover plate with your 1.5mm hex wrench. Set the screw and cover plate aside.

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Step 2

Remove the set screw located in front of the FOX logo while holding the levers against the lever housing with your thumb. Separate the levers from the housing while being careful not to lose the 2 balls and springs from underneath the levers. Separate the cam from the levers.

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Step 3

The levers can be separated from each other by removing the small retaining ring followed by the spring retainer and spring.

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Step 4

Coat the contact surfaces of the levers with a thin film of blue Hi-Temp grease (Sta-Lube SL3125 or similar). Insert the black Trail adjust lever into the blue CTD lever. Install the spring, spring retainer, and retaining ring.

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Step 5

Coat the cam with a thin layer of blue Hi-Temp grease (Sta-Lube SL3125 or similar) and reinstall making sure to seat the cams end into the opening of the black Trail Adjust Knob.

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Step 6

Coat the detent balls and spring with a thin layer of grease. Install the springs into their holes in the lever housing then place the balls on the ends of the springs. Install the levers and cam into the lever housing. Keep pressure against the levers while you thread in the set screw just in front of the FOX logo. Thread the set screw in until flush with the counterbore of the lever housing.

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Step 7

Install the cover plate and set screw torquing to 5 in-lb (0.5 Nm).

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Remote Lever Housing Assembly

If functioning properly you do not need to disassemble the Remote Lever Housing Assembly as part of a regular rebuild. The following disassembly/reassembly steps are shown in case any parts need to be replaced due to damage.

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Step 1

Hold the Lever Housing Assembly and remove the set screw that holds the cover plate with your 1.5mm hex wrench. Set the screw and cover plate aside.

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Step 2

Unthread the set screw that holds the blue pulley to the cam with a 1.5mm hex wrench. Remove the pulley.

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Step 3

Remove the wire retaining ring followed by the black housing stop.

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Step 4

Remove the 2 T6 Torx screws followed by the base plate.

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Step 5

Remove the cam and torsion spring from the Remote Lever Housing then separate the cam from the torsion spring.

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Step 6

Coat the torsion spring and cam with a thin film of blue Hi-Temp grease (Sta-Lube SL3125 or similar). Insert one spring tang into the hole indicated on the cam then install the cam/spring assembly into the Remote Lever Housing.

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Step 7

Rotate the spring/cam assembly in the Remote Lever Housing until the exposed spring tang is positioned as shown. Align the spring tang so it can enter the hole on the inside of the base plate. The spring tang hole in the base plate must be oriented toward the lazer etched FOX logo. Install the 2 T6 Torx screws and torque to 5 in-lb (0.5 Nm).

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Step 8

Install the housing stop in either the up or down position (down position is shown). Install the wire retaining ring.

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Step 9

Thread in the set screw that attaches the blue pulley to the cam just far enough to slip onto the cam and let you rotate the cam with the pulley. 

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You can use a 1.5mm hex wrench in the cable fixing bolt to help turn the pulley/cam.  

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Step 10

Install the blue pulley so that the tab that protrudes from its rear face is sitting against the housing stop as shown. Rotate the cam with the pulley until the tab of the pulley passes the notch on the housing stop. Once the tab of the pulley is past the notch on the housing stop, slide the pulley all the way onto the cam. Tighten the set screw that attaches the pulley to the cam to 5 in-lb (0.5 Nm).

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img/help/page187-NqYRjL/IMG_6935.jpg
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Step 11

Replace the cover plate and torque the set screw to 5 in-lb (0.5 Nm).

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