SERVICE PROCEDURES

2022 DHX Rebuild

Required Parts

Required Tools

  • 398-00-280 Tooling: Eyelet Torque Tool
  • 398-00-558 Tooling: Pin Spanner Wrench
  • 398-00-940 Tooling: Rear Shock, Shaft Bullet Tool, MY 2022 DHX
  • 398-00-951 Tooling: Torque Fixture, 54mm Trunnion Eyelet, Tall
  • 803-00-805 Kit: Shaft Clamps, Shocks, CTD 9mm, 3/8in, 1/2in, 5/8in
  • 803-01-691 Kit: Tooling, .210-36 Vacuum Oil Fill, 2022 Shock, Andreani Thread, with O-ring
  • 803-01-692 Kit: Tooling, Rear Shock, Air Fill Adaptor, MY 2022, with O-ring

Supplies Needed

  • 15mm Chamfer-less Socket
  • 29mm Crow's Foot
  • 2mm Hex Wrench
  • 30mm Crow's Foot
  • 9mm Socket
  • Needle-nosed Pliers
  • Plastic Seal Pick
  • Ratchet
  • T15 Torx Driver
  • T8 Torx Driver
  • Torque Wrench

WARNING: Always wear safety glasses and protective gloves during service to prevent potential injury. Failure to wear protective equipment during service may lead to SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

NOTE: As many assemblies are shared between the FLOAT X and DHX shocks, some images in this rebuild procedure may show a FLOAT X shock. Please follow all instructions in this rebuild as they are for DHX shocks.

WARNING: FOX products should be serviced by a qualified bicycle service technician, in accordance with FOX specifications. If you have any doubt whether or not you can properly service your FOX product, then DO NOT attempt it. Improperly serviced products can fail, causing the rider to lose control resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

WARNING: Modification, improper service, or use of aftermarket replacement parts with FOX forks, shocks, and seatposts may cause the product to malfunction, resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. DO NOT modify any part of a fork, shock, or seatpost including the fork brace (lower leg cross brace), crown, steerer, upper and lower leg tubes, or internal parts, except as instructed herein. Any unauthorized modification may void the warranty, and may cause failure or the fork or shock, resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

WARNING: FOX products contain pressurized nitrogen, air, oil, or all 3. Misuse can cause property damage, SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. DO NOT puncture, incinerate or crush any portion of a FOX product. DO NOT attempt to disassemble any portion of a FOX product, unless expressly instructed to do so by the applicable FOX technical documentation, and then ONLY while strictly adhering to all FOX insturctions and warnings in that instance.

Disassembly

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Step 1

Unthread the Air Fill Cap counter-clockwise with a T8 Torx driver then set it aside. Thread the MY22 Air Fill Adaptor (PN: 803-01-692) clockwise into the Reservoir End Cap fully to release the IFP pressure (if attached to a FOX high-pressure pump, use the pump to bleed out all air from the reservoir). Remove the Air Fill Adaptor by unthreading it counter-clockwise.

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Step 2

Push the Reservoir End Cap into the Reservoir to gain access to the wire retaining ring. Remove the wire retaining ring by pushing the center of the ring down which will cause the ends of the ring to pop up. Be careful not to scratch the IFP bore while removing or installing this ring. Use a small hex wrench to lift the Reservoir End Cap out from the Reservoir.

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Step 3

Hold the flats of the IFP with needle-nosed pliers while you unthread the IFP bleed screw counter-clockwise with a T15 Torx driver. Remove the bleed screw then remove the IFP by pulling up with needle-nosed pliers.

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Step 4

Remove the bearing housing cap and any travel spacers (if present) by unthreading counter-clockwise and removing the two screws with a 2mm hex wrench. This provides access to replace the seals of the bearing housing assembly later.

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Step 5

Use a 29mm wrench to unthread the bearing housing counter-clockwise. Lift the shaft assembly out of the body. Pour the oil out of the body and reservoir into your waste oil basin.

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Step 6

Clamp the adjuster eyelet in your soft jawed vise then remove the reservoir by unthreading it counter-clockwise with a 30mm wrench. Clean the Loctite residue from the reservoir and eyelet threads.

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Step 7

Remove the o-ring from the reservoir then remove the base valve piston. Remove the adjuster shaft spring.

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Step 8

Further disassembly of the base valve piston is only needed if inspecting or changing valving. If needed, temporarily reinstall the base valve piston into the reservoir making sure to align the tabs of the piston with the notches in the wall of the reservoir. Unthread the base valve bolt counter-clockwise with a 9mm socket. 

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Step 9

Inspect the base valve shims and replace any that are damaged or worn. Reinstall the base valve bolt into the piston taking care not to pinch any shims. temporarily reinstall the base valve piston into the reservoir making sure to align the tabs of the piston with the notches in the wall of the reservoir. Tighten the base valve bolt clockwise to 60 in-lb (6.8 Nm).

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Step 10

Remove the base valve piston, check shim, adjuster shaft, wave spring, and lockout plate spring from the reservoir.

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Step 11

Take note of the bulges on the sides of the shaft eyelet. Do not clamp these bulges. Clamp the flat sides of the shaft eyelet in your soft jawed vise. Unthread the piston bolt counter-clockwise with a chamfer-less 15mm socket. Remove the entire main piston valving assembly.

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Step 12

Remove the bearing housing assembly, bearing housing cap, and bottom out bumper.

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Step 13

Turn the red rebound knob clockwise a full 360 degrees. Remove the rebound knob by slowly pulling it out from the eyelet taking care not to lose any of the 4 0.1094" diameter balls. Remove the detent balls and springs from the rebound knob, then clean the knob. Replace the o-ring with a new greased one from the kit.

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Step 14

Coat the rebound cam in a thick layer of Ultraplex LT2 or Stay Lube SL3125 Blue waterproof grease (Ultraplex LT2 shown). Reinstall the detent springs into the holes. 

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Step 15

Clean the shaft with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free paper towel, then clamp the shaft in your shaft clamps with the eyelet up. Carefully apply heat to the Shaft Eyelet with a propane torch then unthread the Shaft Eyelet counter-clockwise to remove. Be careful as the Eyelet and Shaft may be hot!

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Step 16

Clean any Loctite residue from the Eyelet threads. Push the rebound rod down and out through the bottom of the shaft. 

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Step 17

Remove the o-ring from the within the end of the shaft. Clean any Loctite residue from the shaft threads. Install a new greased o-ring from the kit into the end of the shaft.

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General Reassembly

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Step 1

Apply red Loctite 277 to the first 2-3 threads of the shaft. Reinstall the eyelet tightening clockwise to 245 in-lb (27.7 Nm) torque.

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Step 2

Slowly reinsert the rebound knob with detent balls and springs into the eyelet taking care to squeeze the detent balls into the eyelet as you insert the rebound knob.

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Step 3

Make sure the ball bearing is in place on the end of the rebound rod, then coat the ball with a thick film of Ultraplex LT2 or Stay Lube SL3125 waterproof grease. Reinstall the rebound rod, ball end first, into the shaft. Use a non-marring tool to push the rebound rod into the shaft while you turn the red rebound knob counter-clockwise until it comes to a gentle stop.

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Step 4

Install a new bottom out bumper from the kit. Reinstall the bearing housing cap making sure to orient the counter-bores on the cap toward the eyelet.

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Step 5

Replace all the seals on the bearing housing assembly with new greased ones from the kit making sure to orient them as shown. 

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Step 6

Insert the DHX bullet tool (PN: 398-00-940) into the shaft then coat it with a thin film of Slick Honey. Reinstall the bearing housing assembly as shown then remove the bullet tool. 

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Step 7

Remove the topout plate with bumper from the valving assembly then remove the compression valving assembly, main piston, and rebound valving assembly. Inspect the shims and replace any with damage. 

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Step 8

Reinstall the rebound valving assembly onto the piston bolt followed by the main piston. Note the orientation of the main piston as shown. Reinstall the compression valving assembly. Replace the topout bumper with a new greased one from the kit. Reinstall the topout plate. Make sure that no shims are off center or pinched.

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Step 9

Reinstall the main piston assembly onto the shaft taking care no to pinch any shims while threading the piston bolt clockwise. Tighten the piston bolt clockwise to 80 in-lb (9.0 Nm) torque with a 15mm chamfer-less socket.

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Step 10

Reinstall the wave spring into the reservoir orienting the split in the spring toward the eyelet. Make sure that the ends of the wave spring are resting against the shoulder in the reservoir and not agains the check shim. Reinstall the check shim.

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Step 11

Remove the two o-rings on the adjuster shaft and replace them with new greased ones from the kit as shown.

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Step 12

Reinstall the lockout plate spring onto the adjuster shaft  then reinstall the adjuster shaft with new o-rings into the reservoir making sure to engage the feature on the end of the adjuster shaft with the matching feature on the inside of the LSC knob or P-S cap. Reinstall the adjuster shaft spring.

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Step 13

Reinstall the rebuilt base valve piston. Orient the tabs on the outside edge of the base valve piston to the notches in the inside wall of the reservoir. The base valve piston will not install correctly if the tabs are not aligned with the notches. Install a new greased reservoir o-ring from the kit into the reservoir while holding the base valve piston down against the springs.

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Step 14

Apply blue Loctite 243 to 2 threads covering approximately 90 degrees of rotation. Hold the base valve piston down against the springs while you reinstall the reservoir, tightening clockwise to 240 in-lb (27.1 Nm) torque with your 30mm crowsfoot. 

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Step 15

Install a new body spring guard if needed due to excessive wear or damage (not in the kit). Clamp the adjuster eyelet in your soft jawed vise then reinstall the shaft assembly, tightening the bearing housing assembly clockwise to 240 in-lb (27.1 Nm) torque with a 29mm crows foot.

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Step 16

Reinstall any travel spacers that were removed earlier. Reinstall the two screws that retain the bearing housing cap (if removed previousely). Tighten clockwise to 10 in-lb (1.1 Nm) torque with a 2mm hex wrench.

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Step 17

Replace the o-ring on the IFP with a new greased one from the kit. Coat the inside wall of the reservoir with a thin film of FOX 4 wt. oil. Reinstall the IFP into the reservoir. Reinstall the bleed screw with new greased o-ring from the kit into the IFP, tightening clockwise to 7in-lb (0.8 Nm) torque while holding the flats of the IFP. Reinstall the wire retaining ring into the groove in the reservoir as shown.

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Vacuum Bleed/Fill and Final Assembly

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Step 1

Open all adjuster by turning them fully counter-clockwise. Remove the oil fill plug by turning it counter-clockwise with a T8 Torx driver. Make sure that your vacuum bleed machine is filled with FOX 4wt. oil (PN 025-03-063). Install the vacuum fitting (PN 803-01-691) into the eyelet fill port by turning it clockwise. Cycle the shock by hand while you perform the vacuum cycle. Repeat as necessary to purge all air from the shock. Set the IFP to the appropriate depth based on the length of your reservoir.

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Step 2

Orient the oil fill port so it is the highest part of the shock. Remove the vacuum fitting and reinstall the oil fill plug with new greased o-ring from the kit. Tighten clockwise to 8 in-lb (0.9 Nm) torque. 

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Step 3

Remove the wire retaining ring by pushing the center of the ring down which will cause the ends of the ring to pop up. Be careful not to scratch the IFP bore while removing or installing this ring. Coat the inside of the reservoir with a thin film of FOX 4wt. oil. Replace the o-ring of the reservoir end cap with a new greased one from the kit. Reisntall the reservoir end cap into the reservoir pushing down to allow for installation of the retaining ring.

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Step 4

Reinstall the wire ring. Use a small hex wrench to lift the reservoir end cap into place making sure to orient the fill port away from the damper body. Install the air fill adaptor by threading it in clockwise. Set the IFP pressure to 150 psi. Remove the air fill adaptor while still attached to your pump. Reinstall the air fill cap with a new greased o-ring from the kit, tightening clockwise to 3 in-lb (0.3 Nm) torque. 

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Step 5

Clean the exterior of your shock and dyno test all functions.

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